Review: Barrio

When Barrio opened in December in Capitol Hill’s Trace Lofts North building, neither snowy roadways nor the area’s seemingly endless dining choices—Quinn’s, Café Presse, Lark, Spinasse—could keep the curious away. Inside, the cavernous restaurant’s dim lighting, Latin guitar soundtrack and hundreds of flickering candles set a sultry tone. Owned by the Purple Café and Wine Bar team, Barrio has that perfect balance of edgy (rolled-steel railings, concrete floors) and plush—just try to pry yourself off the most comfortable barstools in town. Or don’t, since those barstools wind around a vast mosaic tile bar—the perfect place for the kind of discreet, delicious people watching that this date haven provides (larger parties dominate the two smallish dining rooms that flank the bar).

Drink up: The cocktails are fantastic, especially the “adios mi vida” ($9), a sensational mingling of añejo tequila, cream sherry and brown sugar. Pair your cocktail with the flavorful sea scallop ceviche ($11), piqued with serrano chiles and sweet mango, or share a bowl of the gloriously spicy chorizo-flecked mussels ($13) with grilled bread for dipping, followed by an order of hot-from-the-fryer churros (cinnamon-sugared doughnut sticks, $7) dipped into spiced Mexican chocolate. Just don’t make a full dinner of it: The menu of modern Mexican dishes is full of good-but-not-great small plates (including a straight-from-the-fridge-tasting guacamole billed as freshly mashed), which can be on the pricey side (three two-bite tacos, $13). Better to return for drinks and the alluring view across the bar. Dinner daily. Capitol Hill, 1420 12th Ave.; 206.588.8105; barriorestaurant.com. $$