Review: Pearl

Much has been made about the recent surge in Bellevue’s dining scene (see page 70 for more details). But is it finally ready for its close-up? Pearl, which opened in November in the space briefly occupied by Trader Vic’s in Lincoln Square, doesn’t make a very strong argument. Pearl has a dated nightclub-esque appeal—all silvers and blacks, with sheer curtains and a sexy staff—which suits the urban meat-market clientele. And the booth-lined bar is a popular destination with the happy-hour set, most of whom are ordering a slew of au courant (but mostly so-so) bar bites: overly vinegared pork sliders on thick, bready buns ($9) and “kimchee beef” ($9), a puzzling plate bearing cold sliced beef, house-made kimchi and a delicious turmeric-spiced cauliflower pickle.

The more formal dining room is separated from the bar by a foggy glass partition, but judging from the lack of diners there on a recent visit, the bar is clearly the preferred real estate at Pearl. That’s too bad, as chef/owner Bradley Dickenson, who spent years with the Schwartz Brothers restaurant company (Daniel’s Broiler, Chandler’s), is doing his best work with the Northwest-meets-New American entrées, especially a gorgeously seared fillet of troll-caught salmon ($27) served over tender corona beans and a lovely tomato confit. Lunch and dinner daily. Bellevue, 700 Bellevue Way NE; 425.455.0181; pearlbellevue.com. $$