Rare Treat

Eating raw meat is something of a thrill, a doughty indulgence at a time when even seemingly safe fruits and vegetables—spinach, tomatoes—pose hidden threats. Those willing to throw caution to the wind, however, are rewarded at Café Presse, where the soft, creamy texture and salty, peppery, garlic-spiked flavor of the (admittedly unphotogenic) steak tartare ($16) will bring you to your knees. The French cafe makes the best version I’ve tasted in Seattle: a mix of prime sirloin and hanger steak that’s hand-chopped to order with Dijon mustard, minced shallots, garlic, fresh thyme and a nice dash of Tabasco for back-of-the-throat heat. This egg-free tartare (the traditional recipe calls for a raw egg to roost atop a patty of beef) is served with a lightly dressed salad and a heap of Presse’s sensational twice-fried fries.

Capitol Hill, 1117 12th Ave.; 206.709.7674; cafepresseseattle.com.