Island Getaways: The San Juan Islands

Green gems in Puget Sound, the San Juan Islands number in the dozens—but only the larger islands are easily accessible by ferry. Bathed in the rain shadow of the Olympic Mountains, they’re blessed with more sun than other Puget Sound–area communities. You can find luxe facilities here, but top attractions are more along the lines of great hiking trails and beaches, well-prepared local foods and accommodations that make the most of the spectacular scenery.

San Juan Island
Orcas Island
Lummi Island

THE FRIENDLY ISLE: LOPEZ ISLAND
With a population of just 2,200, Lopez dishes up serenity along with its stunning scenery, vibrant wildlife, a thriving arts community and a charming central village with shops and eateries. And there’s probably no place you’ll feel more welcome, thanks to the locals’ longheld tradition of waving to passersby (yes, even tourists!).

See the Island from Two Wheels
Of all the San Juan Islands, Lopez is known as the place for riding bicycles, given its gently rolling terrain; locals are used to bikes and tend to give them plenty of room on the roads. And if you leave your car behind at the Anacortes dock, you’ll save the aggravation of a long ferry line wait and enjoy about a 50 percent reduction in ferry fare. Once you disembark at Lopez, the island’s delights are merely a few pedal pushes away. Lopez Bicycle Works provides free maps laying out some 33 miles of paved bike routes around the island, and also offers a wide selection of rental bikes for those who don’t roll their own.

Bask in a Sunset
Perhaps the best place on Lopez to watch the sun go down, Shark Reef Sanctuary (off Shark Reef Road on Lopez’s southwest side) consists of 45 acres of old- and second-growth forest fronted by a series of dazzling interconnected, lichen-encrusted cliffs that plunge down into the turbulent channel separating Lopez from nearby San Juan Island. Keep your ears and eyes alert for seals congregating on the rocks just offshore, and if the tide is low, check out the tidepools for starfish, sea anemones and other tidal wildlife.

Get Cozy in a Cottage
A weekend stay at Lopez Farm Cottages is the perfect antidote to city living. Each of the five charming, light-filled, studio-style cottages resembles a freestanding deluxe hotel room, with a gas-powered fireplace, mood lighting and kitchenette. Ask for Cottage no. 1 if you want your own outdoor Jacuzzi. (Guests in other cottages share a separate, larger Jacuzzi.) You can also rough it at one of the dozen woodsy campsites, each with its own hammock as well as access to one of two nearby camp buildings with showers, toilets and outdoor kitchens. To preserve the tranquility and romantic air of the property, kids and pets should stay home.

While Away the Time on a Porch
A sweeping porch fronts the grand 1904 farmhouse that’s now the MacKaye Harbor Inn, on 2 acres of prime waterfront real estate on the south side of Lopez. It was the first island home to have electric lights, and now—a few tasteful renovations later—the inn accommodates vacationers in its five elegant water-view guestrooms. After a hearty breakfast in the dining room, borrow a mountain bike for a ride to nearby Agate Beach County Park, or push off in a kayak for a paddle out into the San Juan Strait in search of orca whales.

Have an Omnivore’s Dilemma
Given its diminutive population, the breadth of dining options on Lopez is a pleasant surprise. The Bay Café is the island’s waterfront home for fine Northwest cuisine. Seasonally changing menus usually include local organic produce, Lopez Island grass-fed beef and seafood hauled in that day by Lopez fishermen. The Galley, a favorite for locals, is a casual spot that serves three meals a day and ample portions from a diverse menu. Foodies of every stripe—but especially vegetarians—will appreciate the Vortex Juice Bar and Café, which specializes in organic meat- and dairy-free favorites. Customers rave about the wraps, soups, salads and, of course, fruit and yogurt smoothies. Find 14 varieties of organic fudge at Just Heavenly Fudge Factory in the village, which also cycles through eight unique flavors—from lavender vanilla to black walnut to cherries in chocolate, among others—of gourmet ice cream by the cup or cone from Lopez Island Creamery.

Sip a Malbec
Small, family-run Lopez Island Vineyards uses unique grape varieties organically grown on-site to craft award-winning Malbecs and Sangioveses. The vineyard is the only agricultural entity in the San Juans to earn the prestigious Salmon-Safe eco-label from the Seattle-based nonprofit Stewardship Partners, meaning its practices and operations protect water quality, fish and wildlife habitat, and overall watershed health. Stop by the tasting room (open seasonally) to see what all the buzz is about.

Walk on the Wild Side
A small strip of beach that sticks out into the Pacific Ocean gives Spencer Spit State Park its name. The spit—located within the 138-acre park—was created by eons of wave action and encloses a saltwater lagoon sheltering a wide variety of bird life. Enjoy a picnic, explore the driftwood punctuating the sand or watch ducks, geese, loons, herons and eagles. The park, which includes forested areas as well as beach and marsh, is a popular camping spot. (For the busy summer months, it’s smart to reserve a site through the state’s centralized booking system, 888.226.7688.) Three of the choicest campsites are only available to interisland kayakers on the Cascadia Marine Trail. Day use of the park is unrestricted.

LOPEZ ISLAND RESOURCES The Bay Café 9 Old Post Road, Suite C 360.468.3700 The Galley 3365 Fisherman Bay Road 360.468.2713 Just Heavenly Fudge Factory 9 Old Post Road, Suite B 360.468.2439 Lopez Bicycle Works 2847 Fisherman Bay Road 360.468.2847 Lopez Farm Cottages 555 Fisherman Bay Road 800.440.3556 Lopez Island Vineyards 724 Fisherman Bay Road 360.468.3644 MacKaye Harbor Inn 949 MacKaye Harbor Road 888.314.6140 Shark Reef Sanctuary Shark Reef Road (on Lopez’s southwest side) Spencer Spit State Park 521A Acre View Road 888.226.7688 (reservations) 360.902.8844 (information) Vortex Juice Bar and Cafe 135-A Lopez Road 360.468.4740

>>Explore the San Juans: Lopez Island; San Juan Island; Orcas Island; Lummi Island