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Seattle Magazine

2009 WA Wine Awards: Best of the Rest

By Shannon Borg
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(Photo by Victoria Lahti
)

Best Emerging Varietal
Malbec
Originally a blending grape in the Bordeaux region of France and then a varietal in Argentina, this grape is cropping up in Washington because of its ability to grow well in the hot days and cool nights of eastern Washington. Malbec is primarily a moderate to dark, full-bodied wine with soft tannins and big fruit. Winemaker Anna Schafer of àMaurice Cellars in Walla Walla makes a delicious Malbec full of huckleberry, blackberry and plum from their emerging estate vineyard. Tildio Winery in Manson (near Lake Chelan) has a following for its deep, rich Malbec from the Stillwater Creek Vineyard, our 2008 Vineyard of the Year. Match these straightforward, fruity wines with beef short ribs or a grilled lamb chop and you’ll be a fan, too.

Best Washington Wine-focused Restaurant Wine List
Waterfront Seafood Grill
General manager Christian Sparkman, a winemaker himself (he owns Sparkman Cellars), has put together a wine program with a stable of 17 certified sommeliers to help you choose the perfect wine from a list that gives you a tour of some of the best wineries in Washington, the Northwest and abroad. Sparkman hosts a full schedule of wine dinners featuring some of the area’s best winemakers. To pair with chef Peter Levine’s wonderful seafood preparations, choose from about a dozen premium Washington wines by the glass, or a bottle from a list that features new wineries such as Woodinville Warehouse District’s Mark Ryan, Gorman, Des Voigne, Guardian and Efeste, as well as Yakima Valley and Walla Walla favorites such as Woodward Canyon. Waterfront, 2801 Alaskan Way Pier 70; 206.956.9171; waterfrontpier70.com

Best Alternative Closure
Syncline McKinley Springs Syrah
In 2007, Syncline won our “Best Wine with a Screwtop” award for sealing their stellar Viognier with a Stelvin closure. Now, they’ve discovered Vino-Lok, an elegant glass stopper with a sealing ring that is answering the concerns of those who don’t want to let go of the cork. This classy device keeps out microbes that can “cork” the wine, making it smell like wet cardboard. It is also easy to remove and replace tightly. Of course, the most important thing is the taste of the wine in the bottle, and we admire Syncline owners James and Poppie Mantone for protecting their delicious wines in such an innovative and elegant way. Lyle; 111 Balch Road, 509.365.4361; synclinewine.com

Best Destination Winery
Maryhill Winery
Maryhill Winery sits on the banks of the Columbia River, its vineyards stretching down to the edge of the steep cliffs of the Columbia Gorge near Goldendale. In summer, there’s no view like it; look out the tasting-room windows or sit beneath the vine-covered arbor on the wrap-around patio and enjoy a gorgeous view of Mount Hood and the surrounding hills. While these features, along with excellent wine, draw visitors, people also come for the summer concert series in the winery’s 4,000-seat amphitheater. Last summer’s performers included B.B. King and Crosby, Stills and Nash. What better way to spend a weekend? Goldendale; 9774 Highway 14; 877.627.9445; maryhillwinery.com

Best Winery Tasting Room
Kiona Vineyards and Winery
Kiona (Kigh-OH-na) Vineyards and Winery has been welcoming wine tasters to a small but friendly tasting room on Red Mountain near Prosser ever since owners John and Ann Williams bottled their first Lemberger and Chenin Blanc in 1980. But last year, they opened a slick new tasting room with a contemporary look and cozy vibe, overlooking the gorgeous kiona—a native Yakama word for “brown hills.” Benton City; 44612 N Sunset Road; 509.588.6716; kionawine.com

Best Emerging Wine Region
Columbia Gorge
Along the Columbia River from Goldendale to Hood River, taking in little towns you might not have heard of—Wishram, Lyle, Bingen—a new winegrowing region is emerging as one of the state’s most interesting. The moderating influence of the grand Columbia, which in most years keeps the area’s 300 acres of grapes from freezing, and the south-facing cliffs, which rise 400 feet above the river and gather heat to ripen the grapes, combine to create a climate friendly to many varieties. James and Poppie Mantone, owners of Syncline Wine Cellars near Lyle, focus on Rhône varietals such as Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Carignan and Viognier. Down the road near Wishram, Bob Lorkowski of Cascade Cliffs grows Italian varieties such as Barbera, Nebbiolo and Dolcetto. About 30 wineries, such as Maryhill Winery, Cor Cellars and Wind River Cellars, each bring a different taste to this growing region. columbiagorgewine.com

Best New Washington Wine-focused Wine Bar
Bin vivant
The Enomatic wine preservation system used by Bin vivant, on Kirkland’s Carillon Point overlooking Lake Washington, keeps oxygen away from the wine in open bottles and each type of wine appropriately chilled, making this place truly “vinocentric.” Bin vivant serves more than 80 wines by the glass using this system. Enjoy everything from Cabernets to lesser-known wines such as Grüner Veltliner, a crisp, fresh Austrian white. You’ll also find unique “wine cocktails” or “gelees,” basically gourmet Jell-O shots, such as the elderflower Syrah smash, with St. Germain liqueur, Plymouth gin and a splash of Snoqualmie Winery Syrah. Wines are also served in flights—three small tastes of wines of the same style or from different regions to compare—with captivating names such as “Earthy Goodness” or “Smoke and Spice.” Kirkland, 1200 Carillon Point; 425.803.5595; thewoodmark.com

Coolest Wine Label
Dusted Valley Vintners Boomtown Label Series
The illustrations on the Dusted Valley Boomtown label series of wine show artful scenes of a culture at its zenith—retro 1930s-style images of Seattle’s working waterfront. These muted but intensely energetic labels reflect the success that the state and the Washington wine industry have enjoyed for the past few years—and we hope will continue to experience for years to come. They say wine is a depression-proof business, because people always want to enjoy a glass, in good times and bad. Well, perhaps the wine biz is not totally immune but these well-priced wines—Pinot Gris ($13), Chardonnay ($13), Cabernet Sauvignon ($15), Merlot ($15) and Syrah ($15)—show that at least some of the good things are affordable. Walla Walla, 1248 Old Milton Highway; 509.525.1337; Dustedvalley.com


Produced by Anne Nisbet, Shannon Borg and Andrea Delimont



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