Spur Gastropub

Calling Spur a gastropub is misleading. The food is elevated (the menu is a foodie’s dream, boasting pork belly sliders, fish and meat cooked sous vide), but there’s nothing pub-ish about it. There are only four beers on tap at Spur, which opened in the former Mistral space in July. It’s really more of a gastro-lounge, an easy-on-the-eyes boîte with a sexy city vibe, all rough-hewn wood, wrought-iron railings, candlelit corners and an inspired cocktail list. Chef/owner Brian McCracken and Dana Tough, most recently chef de cuisine at Tilth, create witty, tasty bites and give Seattle a light dose of molecular gastronomy (think foams and the like) along the way. Their cleverness works most of the time; I adored the chicharrón (homemade pork crackling) served with a bowl of chile-laced steamed mussels ($12), but was sorry there weren’t any fries or bread to sop up the sauce. Flavors are big, clear and pure, especially earthy baby beets ($9) sitting atop gamey chèvre. But the portions? Small—even for small plates. After carefully trying to cut the three delicious smoked salmon-topped crostini ($9) into bites to share, and dishing out bites of two caramelized scallops ($16) sadly anointed with a corn foam that tasted more like marshmallow fluff, one of my dining companions wondered aloud if she’d have to go to Dick’s on the way home.

Dinner daily. Belltown, 113 Blanchard St.; 206.728.6706; spurseattle.com. $$