The Breakfast Club
| By Allison Austin Scheff |
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When it comes to flapjacks and scrambles, everybody’s got an opinion. We gathered around the Formica—coffee mugs in hand—to dish about where to go for the most important meal of the day.
Best Breakfast Potato
Steve’s Cafe Expresso
Bothell, 10116 Main Place; 425.487.0481
The quartered red spuds, grilled on the flat-top until deep brown and slightly crispy, are some of the finest taters around. These golden wedges match up perfectly with the all-star lineup of omelettes at this homey spot.
Best Benedict
Glo’s
Capitol Hill, 1621 E Olive Way; 206.324.2577
The eggs Benedict shines brightly—you might even say it glows—at this venerable hole-in-the-wall diner on Capitol Hill. The smoked salmon Benedict is lox-lishious, while a satisfying veggie version is built on a bed of sautéed spinach. The classic rendition is distinguished by a thicker slice of Canadian bacon that’s seared to bring out the ham’s honeyed sweetness. All the half-dozen Benedicts have one thing in common: a just-right Hollandaise made each morning from the late founder’s closely guarded recipe. It sets the gold standard by which all other versions of this classic sauce should be compared.
Best Blueberry Overload
Blue Dog Kitchen
University District, 5247 University Way NE; 206.632.5132; bluedogkitchen.com
Located in the former Brooklyn Grinder space, this laid-back, student-packed venue offers a load of antioxidant power in the Super Blue, which could easily be called the city’s bluest plate special. Fat berries are plopped into the substantial blue cornmeal pancake batter; the end result is paired with a pitcher of not-too-cloying blueberry syrup.
Best Quiche
Café Besalu
Ballard, 5909 24th Ave. NW; 206.789.1463
You’ve savored the ginger biscuit, swooned over the pain au chocolat, but it’s Besalu’s humble quiche that quietly beckons. The buttery crust and ethereal silken texture make this breakfast treat—chock-full of ham, Gruyère (when in season), or sautéed leeks and sweet goat cheese—just dreamy.
Best Use of Seafood as Hangover Cure
Bay Café at Fisherman’s Terminal
Magnolia, 1900 W Nickerson; 206.282.3435
Trendy brunch spots have their place, but when you’re in dire need of a real-deal diner to soothe a mean hangover, there’s nothing better than the Bay. A heap of fresh Dungeness and shrimp are piled into your omelette, which arrives with buttery hash browns and toast. But beware: The serviceable Hollandaise is best served on the side.
Best Pancake of the Week
Geraldine’s
Columbia City, 4872 Rainier Ave. S; 206.723.2080; geraldinescounter.com
When Sunday morning grumbles in with drizzle, chill and general grayness, Geraldine’s rotating roster of pancakes offers warmth and comfort. Just try to resist the applesauce cakes with apple-cinnamon topping, the pumpkin pancakes with orange honey butter or the all-time favorite, fluffy ricotta cakes with fresh strawberries.
Monsoon
Capitol Hill, 615 19th Ave. E; 206.325.2111; monsoonseattle.com
Brunch here has a little bit of everything: fine dim sum, Vietnamese treats such as the delicate stuffed lentil-flour crepe known as banh xeo and even brioche French toast for the diehard morning sweet tooth. But a favorite morning dish here is the rice porridge known as congee, a breakfast staple in Vietnam and China. At Monsoon, it’s made with oxtail stock instead of water, as you’ll sometimes find around town, so that it has a rich resonance that is offset by the brightness of scallions and crispy shallots. Spoonful by spoonful, you’ll savor its comforting power (not unlike a great risotto).
Best-Named Breakfast Dish
Hi-Life
Ballard, 5425 Russell Ave.; 206.784.7272; chowfoods.com/hilife
The brilliantly monikered Cleanup on Aisle 12 Hash might have you wondering if the chef spun out in the produce aisle, but the motley mix-up of soft triangles of fried polenta on a bed of sautéed chard, kale, beets and other vegetables and topped with a poached egg is the perfect light brunch for the health-conscious diner. Or the hungry grocery shopper.
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