Key Ingredient: Curry Leaves

What it is: Curry leaves come from the Karivepallai tree, which is native to India. These green, aromatic leaves grow to about 2 inches in length, and are used whole and ground in many southern Indian and Southeast Asian curries. A common misconception is that the curry powder you likely have on your spice rack is derived from curry leaves, but this is not true—there are no curry leaves in curry powder. The leaves are sold fresh and dried, though the fresh leaves are far superior in flavor. Curry leaves are sold attached to the branch and refrigerated to preserve their aroma.

How I discovered it: At a recent dinner at Capitol Hill’s Poppy, I ordered the “Rum Curry” cocktail, which listed curry leaf as one of its ingredients. The curry leaf imparted a savory, subtly lemony taste to the cocktail and prompted me to try my hand at a few Indian recipes that feature this ingredient. This month’s recipe is an adaptation of a curried coconut crab recipe two talented Goan friends of ours made for my husband and me two years ago—a dish our lovely hosts heaped on my plate at least four times over the course of the evening. My adaptation of their recipe includes curry leaves and a few other special, yet still widely available, ingredients for an addictively spicy, creamy crab dish that’s perfect over basmati rice or with naan. (Best of all, it comes together in less than 15 minutes!)

How to use it in the kitchen: Add curry leaves whole to hot oil before making a curry or soup and fry until crisp, so that the slightly sour flavor infuses the oil. Curry leaves pair well with a variety of seafood and shellfish, as well as heartier meats such as lamb. Store leftover fresh curry leaves in the freezer for as long as two weeks. Curry leaves can also be pulverized in a food processor and used to flavor homemade chutneys.

Where to find it: You’ll find fresh curry leaves packaged in plastic bags in the refrigerated section of most Indian grocery stores (approximately $1–$1.50/bag containing 30–40 leaves), including Apna Bazar (Bellevue, 2245 148th Ave. NE; 425.644.6887) and R&M Grocery and Video store (University District, 5501 University Way NE; 206.526.1793).


Lorna’s recipe for coconut Dungeness crab with fresh curry leaves
Serves 2–4 as a side dish

4 tablespoons ghee or vegetable oil
12 fresh curry leaves
1 tablespoon mustard seeds
2 tablespoons peeled ginger, finely diced
2–6 small red chilies, finely diced (depending on your heat preference)
1 yellow onion, finely diced
2/3 cup coconut milk
1 pound cooked Dungeness crab meat
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
2 teaspoons turmeric
3 teaspoons garam masala
juice of 1 lime
2 teaspoons brown sugar
¼ cup toasted, shredded coconut
fresh cilantro (optional)

Heat the oil in a large pan on medium-high heat. Roast the mustard seeds in the hot oil until they pop and smell nutty, about 1 minute. Add the curry leaves and fry for 2 minutes, or until crisp. Add the peeled ginger, diced chilies and diced onion to the pan and stir for 6–7 minutes, or until the onion softens and turns golden brown.

Add the turmeric, garam masala and coconut milk to the pan. Stir until the spices coat the onion, then add the crab and brown sugar, and simmer for 2–3 minutes until heated through. Season with salt and pepper, stir in the lime juice, and top with shredded coconut and chopped cilantro.

Serve with basmati rice, naan or roti.