Ethan Stowell's Mkt. Serves Up Delicious Market-Driven Dishes

Allison Austin Scheff  |   March 2014   |  FROM THE PRINT EDITION
mkt in seattle ethan stowell new restaurant seattle magazine
Mkt.’s scallops and smoky pork shank

It is a blessing to live in a city so excited about good food that, when an impossibly slim sliver of space is left between businesses in a neighborhood the size of your pocket, you’ll blink and a little restaurant will pop right up. Such is the case in Tangletown: Mkt., pronounced “market” and owned by prolific restaurateur Ethan Stowell, has chef Joe Ritchie at the helm, and he’s doing remarkable things in the tight confines. Ritchie, who has spent time at Poppy and The Herbfarm, crafts crisp fritters of winter squash ($9) and serves them with an intriguing pumpkin-seed-oregano pesto for dipping. His slow-roasted vegetable salad ($9) is roundly satisfying, with a silken soft-boiled egg adding heft and sourdough croutons bringing crunch. There are people-pleasers such as scallops ($21) with smoky pork shank and punctuated with the smart addition of chervil, and food-geek catnip like lamb’s tongue ($13), rich and tender, with freshly grated horseradish, brown bread and beets. A well-edited wine list and just a few drinks are offered, and desserts are simple, home-style affairs, such as a chocolate malted pudding ($8) that was lovely. Because Mkt. is so small and narrow, with seating for just one long row of tables in its pared-down interior, you’ll need to make reservations (yes, they take them!) until the buzz dies down a bit. Which may be awhile, as the place deserves the good attention it’s getting. Dinner nightly. Tangletown, 2108 N 55th St.; 206.812.1580;