Tucked away in the tony enclave of Madison Park in the old Sostanza space is a restaurant where the chefs, managers, bartenders and servers all seem to genuinely enjoy each other’s company, a vibe that spills over into the elegant dining room, now pared down with a spare Mediterranean vibe.
Owners Bryan Jarr and Cormac Mahoney, a Sitka & Spruce veteran, happen to be the duo behind the now-closed buzzy walk-up Tako Truk, which operated in the evenings inside Eastlake’s 14 Carrot Cafe. And yet Madison Park Conservatory is its own well-rounded destination.
Mahoney and sous chef Zoi Antonitsas, who trained with Tom Douglas (though most know her as a Top Chef alum), put forward a high-end menu that runs from delicate octopus ceviche ($13) to beef tongue ($11) grilled to a pâté-like compliance, to a Piedmontese-style housemade pasta with a seasonal offering, such as crab or truffles.
Diners seeking more casual digs can climb the stairs and enjoy the same menu in an adults-only bar setting, complete with lake views and a list of impeccable, inventive cocktails from spirits doyenne Maggie Savarino. Try the Black Irish Manhattan ($12), made with Jameson, amaro (herbal) liqueur, house-made nocino (walnut) liqueur and green bitters.
1927 43rd Ave. E