New Ballard Outpost Celebrates Beer-Friendly Bites

Ethan Stowell's gastropub Bramling Cross features micro-local brews and unique dishes
| FROM THE PRINT EDITION |
 
 

There are lots of reasons to like Bramling Cross, Ethan Stowell’s new 50-seat gastropub located within a few blocks of sister restaurants Ballard Pizza Company, Staple & Fancy and Marine Hardware (formerly Chippy’s).

Let’s start with the interior: Imagine white faux taxidermy and vintage encyclopedias sharing shelf space above booths lit by library lanterns. Then, there’s the reservation policy. If you have a young child, as I do, it is a huge deal that you can A.) take them to a gastropub and B.) not have to wait around. There’s also an awesome American-cheese-cloaked burger and a fried chicken meal deal. More on that later.

Priorities: If you are a beer lover, the restaurant, which is named after a hop varietal, will be your favorite Stowell outpost to date, because the focus is on wood-fired, shareable dishes that pair with eight micro-local brews (made in Ballard or Fremont) and another 50 international beers.

One of those dishes is chef Travis Post’s (formerly of Staple & Fancy) ridiculously moist pork osso buco ($27) with Dijon spaetzle. The shank is slathered in herbs and spices, and then simmered in pork and duck fat until it slips off the bone. Another killer dish: caramelized cauliflower ($11) dressed in tangy yogurt, sweet golden raisins and dukkah, a nutty, cumin-laced spice blend. Finally, that Dynamite Chicken ($38), which is enough to feed three adults.

It’s a whole (slightly underseasoned) Mad Hatcher chicken fried to order and served with sides of mascarpone-laced grits and bacon-flecked collard greens.Is it the best fried chicken I’ve had? No. But, it is unique to Bramling Cross. As Stowell continues his march up Ballard Avenue, I appreciate that he’s working hard to distinguish each of his multiple outposts from one another. Ballard, 5205 Ballard Ave. NW; 206.420.8192; ethanstowellrestaurants.com

Related Content

It's time to celebrate: Spring's right around the corner and there's all kinds of spirited happenings within Seattle's craft beverage scene

The doors at 85°C Bakery Cafe had not yet opened just before 9 a.m. today, and already the line of customers snaked around the Southcenter Mall corner.

A second Drunky's Two Shoe BBQ is expected to open here soon; with it, perhaps the start of a new live music scene on the west side

MOHAI’s new exhibit traces the city’s food journey. To celebrate, curator and Seattle food writer Rebekah Denn’s expanded excerpt from the exhibit presents some iconic—but not fancy—food pairings with Washington wines, beers and spirits