Review: Restaurant Bea UPDATE CLOSED

Allison Austin Scheff  |   July 2013   |  FROM THE PRINT EDITION
Restaurant Bea’s sweet dining room in Madrona

It’s confounding, really, the revolving door that has plagued the sweet, bright storefront in Madrona, where Cremant, then June, and now Restaurant Bea lives. Confounding because each of these restaurants—Cremant with its seductive French fare, June with its more daring Asian-French fusion—had charm to spare and food at least as good as any in any of the neighboring (and still thriving) restaurants. Bea, Kate Perry’s boutique eatery, celebrated its first birthday in March and seems to have found a happy middle ground, menu-wise: a tender shoulder steak (the under-used teres major cut, $21) wears a luxurious mushroom demi-glace over sultry polenta; steamed clams bathe in a dreamy bacon-kissed white wine cream sauce ($14). These are sure things, and the families (earlier in the evening) and neighborhood double-daters linger in the prim space, decked out with grandma’s floral wallpaper and sea foam green chairs, dipping spoons into fudgy brownies with house-made strawberry jam and a cloud of soft whipped cream ($8) at the end of a meal. In the rear bar, the mood is a touch sexier, and the cocktails are impressive, especially the Lyon sour ($11), rye, blood-orange syrup and lemon with an unexpected—and stunning—deep red Malbec float. Dinner Tue.–Sun. Madrona, 1423 34th Ave.; 206.812.2901; restaurantbea.com

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