Smoked Salmon Deviled Eggs at RN74

Julien Perry  |   May 2014   |  FROM THE PRINT EDITION
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They are a thing of beauty, RN74’s smoked salmon deviled eggs ($10). Chef David Varley has created a more sophisticated and incredibly balanced version of the classic party snack. Slivers of house-smoked salmon are draped across each egg, topped with salmon roe (ikura), shallots two ways (pickled and fried) and a tiny dill garnish. There is an obvious salty component to each ingredient, but if you pay close attention, you will notice that there is a quiet, underlying texture scale at work: The egg itself is light and creamy, the smoked salmon has some chew to it, the pickled shallot adds snap, the ikura provides a sweet pop and the fried shallot on top packs a crunch. Varley is a smart guy. Here, he uses nostalgia and his penchant for comfort food to construct something of a gateway drug into the rest of the bistro’s sometimes intimidating menu. The detail given to the composition of this often-dismissed dish hints at a full menu that is just as carefully orchestrated. The smoked salmon deviled eggs will likely be gone by June, so get them while they last. Lunch Mon.–Fri., dinner Mon.–Sat. 1433 Fourth Ave.; 206.456.7474; michaelmina.net

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