Sushi Kappo Tamura: Restaurant Review

Chef Taichi Kitamura's dedication to local and seasonal seafood translates to Kappo Tamura playing w
Allison Austin Scheff  |   November 2010   |  FROM THE PRINT EDITION
The sushi bar at Sushi Kappo Tamura

The last time we saw chef Taichi Kitamura, he was creating gorgeous plates for a lucky few diners at the hallowed Chiso Kappo above Fremont’s Chiso Sushi. There, his manner was subdued, respectful. It didn’t seem as if he was having very much fun. At Sushi Kappo Tamura, which he opened in July, Kitamura shouts a greeting to those approaching the restaurant’s 13-seat sushi bar. His interactions are easy, and slightly daring orders are met with a subtle spark of appreciation. It’s a good time having sushi in this windowed corner space, even before you get your mouth around some of Seattle’s most impeccably fresh, impeccably cut fish. Enjoy sweet scallops ($12 for sashimi), sockeye salmon with brilliant coral flesh ($15 for sashimi) and cuttlefish ($8 for sushi) with just a whisper of brine and that  intriguing chew. The chef’s dedication to local and seasonal seafood translates to local spot prawns—a beautiful, unexpected treat on a summer visit—along with local albacore and white salmon when in season. Cooked dishes don’t slouch: Geoduck, still soft, arrives in a warm mushroom broth with oyster and king mushrooms ($13). Even tempura—those spot prawns plus maitake mushrooms one night ($11)—is given extra care here. Kappo Tamura is playing with the big boys of sushi—with Shiro’s and Nishino. And he might just take the lead. Dinner Tue.–Sun. Eastlake, 2968 Eastlake Ave. E; 206.547.0937; sushikappotamura.com. $$
Published November 2010

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