Wood-Fired Bagels at Eltana

I’ve never been to Montreal, so I can’t tell you whether Eltana’s Montreal-style bagels are the real deal. But even if they’re not, these are great bagels.

Chewy, dense and with just a slight smoky flavor from their trip into the wood fire after being boiled in honeyed water, they’re made until about 2 p.m. every day, so you’re likely to luck into a warm bagel ($1 each) no matter when you show up. They’re plenty good plain, but don’t miss the delicious spreads: a vibrant pomegranate-eggplant version ($4.50), a spring-pea-hued fava bean with mint ($4.25), a sweet honey-almond cream cheese ($3.25) and a bold garlic cream ($3.75).

Salads follow suit: Gorgeous gold beets wear a sumac-spiced yogurt dressing; roasted cauliflower is tossed with tahini (all salads are $2.75 with bagel purchase). It’s all vegetarian, and so far (dinner items were to be added after press time), it’s all spot on.

Breakfast and lunch daily. Capitol Hill, 1538 12th Ave.; 206.724.0660; eltana.com.