Fall Into Our Washington Wine Getaways

YAKIMA VALLEY
The Yakima Valley produces about a third of Washington’s grapes (and is home to the state’s oldest vineyards), yet it remains a relatively undiscovered wine-tasting destination. Chalk this up to the region’s lack of infrastructure: Although a host of new developments are in the works, upscale accommodations and fine-dining spots are few and far between. The good news? For those looking to leave city life far behind, the sprawling valley and surrounding area’s folksy charm, accessible winemakers, and abundance of microclimates and varietals make for an utterly unpretentious introduction to Washington wines. Anchor your trip at a luxe resort in Prosser and cross a mix of majestic tasting rooms and veteran wineries off your list, or bed down in Zillah for a wild western wine-tasting adventure. 

Where to stay:
From its hillside perch in the still relatively undeveloped town of Prosser, Desert Wind Winery (2258 Wine Country Road, Prosser; 509.786.7277; $250–$300) aims to prove that if you build it, the wine-loving tourists will come. And it’s a prophecy worth fulfilling: Built in 2007, the still evolving but gracefully appointed Southwest-style winery, restaurant and four-suite upscale lodge is an ideal home base for exploring nearby wineries in Prosser and Red Mountain. Start your day with French press coffee in bed from Desert Wind’s complimentary breakfast basket.

Wine region experience:
Yakima Valley and Red Mountain
Anchor your visit to the Yakima Valley with a stay at Desert Wind. Its location in southeastern Yakima Valley lets you easily explore two Yakima Valley wine-tasting regions: Prosser and Red Mountain. Although its 710 acres of vineyards make it the smallest American Viticultural Area (AVA) in the state, Red Mountain—with panoramic views and a reputation for bold, tannic reds—is a strong contender for the most picturesque.

Where to eat:
While Desert Wind chef and recent culinary school grad Eric Cardenas gets points for ambition, the winery’s on-site restaurant was still finding its footing at press time. Prosser’s newest restaurant, Picazo 7 Seventeen (717 Sixth St., Prosser; 509.786.1116), has quickly become a local favorite for its Spanish-influenced entrées and live music on Saturday nights. And for lunch, you’ll be hard-pressed to beat one of the valley’s ubiquitous taco trucks (keep an eye out just off exit 96 on I-82 on your way to Red Mountain).

Where to stay:
Cherry Wood Bed Breakfast and Barn
Slumber in tricked-out teepees and tour wineries by horseback in Zillah’s quaint wine-tasting region

Limousine tours of Walla Walla? Been there. Biking through the Willamette Valley? Done that. But wine tasting on horseback followed by deep slumber in a luxury teepee? Not until you’ve escaped to Zillah’s Rattlesnake Hills and the fledgling winemaking region’s endearingly kitschy Cherry Wood Bed Breakfast and Barn (3271 Roza Drive, Zillah; 509.829.3500; $145–$165). Begin the day with innkeeper Pepper Fewel’s homemade Swedish pancake breakfast in Cherry Wood’s rambling 5-year-old farmhouse inn, then saddle up for a customized wine-tasting tour ($150 per person, reservations required). At day’s end, settle into one of Cherry Wood’s 20-foot-tall outdoor teepees’ toasty, cloud-like beds for wine-tinged sweet dreams. (Superclean outdoor portable potties round out the amenities—and one of the teepees has an outdoor shower.)

Wine region experience:
Rattlesnake Hills
Although some of the area’s 1,500 acres of vineyards date back to 1968, Rattlesnake Hills—a swath of cowboy country on the northern boundary of the Yakima Valley, named for its serpentine rolling terrain and known for its Bordeaux wines—is Washington’s newest AVA. This translates to a healthy mix of almost 20 established and upstart wineries, all nestled together in a manageable area long on quirky personalities and a sense of community.

Standout wineries:
Horseback rides meander through vineyards, orchards and working farms—allowing plenty of time for barrel room tours and taking in the crisp fall foliage as you visit wineries such as relative old-timer Sheridan (2980 Gilbert Road, Zillah; 509.829.3205) and brand-new Two Mountain (2151 Cheyne Road, Zillah; 509.829.3900). If you’re not too tuckered out (or bowlegged) after the ride, a five-minute drive takes you to Wineglass Cellars’ (260 N Bonair Road, Zillah; 509.829.3011) and Bonair Winery’s (500 S Bonair Road, Zillah; 509.829.6027) quaint tasting rooms—where, just as in the rest of the area, winemakers are surprisingly accessible and make time to discuss each vintage.
Must-try wines:
Sheridan, 2005 L’Orage, $42
Two Mountain, 2004 Syrah, $22
Wineglass Cellars, 2005 Sangiovese, $19.99
Bonair Winery, 2004 Morrison Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, $30

Where to eat:
At day’s end, tuck into the burritos at Zillah’s best restaurant, El Ranchito (1319 E First Ave., Zillah; 509.829.5880).

Want more? Read about a Downtown Yakima detour that offers a taste of artisan pastries, fresh produce, tasting rooms and spa treatments.

Or, find out details about a winemaker-for-a-day program at Two Mountain.
 

CAVE B INN AT SAGECLIFFE
While traveling to Quincy-area destination winery Cave B Inn at SageCliffe (344 Silica Road NW, Quincy; 509.785.2283; $150–$595), don’t be surprised if you have an overwhelming urge to double-check your map. Located off a winding road along the gaping edge of the Columbia Gorge, the 680-acre getaway’s respectful modern architecture blends seamlessly into its spectacular surroundings—keeping its presence under wraps until you’ve literally stumbled upon it.
But what a stumble it is: Individual cliff houses with sloping corrugated roofs and small clusters of guest rooms with private terraces overlook the gorge; a hiking trail curves beguilingly toward the Columbia River; and tidy green vineyards pose a striking contrast to the unruly desert terrain. Combining upscale amenities—such as a spa and restaurant (Tendrils) that could easily hold their own in downtown Seattle—with an eye toward sustainability, the 7-year-old winery and resort is hard to beat for a romantic fall getaway.

About an hour from Yakima and two from Walla Walla, it’s possible to use Cave B as a home base for a comprehensive Washington wine tour. (It’s located in the Columbia Valley AVA, but is close to the soon-to-be-named Lake Chelan AVA.) But once you’ve settled into a private cliff house, whiled away an hour by the natural basalt pool’s rushing waterfall and scheduled a kayak trip or river rock massage, chances are you won’t want to leave. And while young winemaker Freddy Arredondo’s wines (which include everything from Bordeauxs and Cabernet Sauvignons to Sémillons and ice wines) aren’t the main attraction here, they’re a delightful accompaniment to extended private tastings in the basalt-lined tasting room, and to organic seasonal meals prepared by chef Shauna Seriver.
Must-try wines:
Cave B, 2005 Cuvée du Soleil ($45)

What to eat at tendrils: pan-seared Othello duck with chanterelles, wild rice risotto and roasted yellow squash.