Like Fonte less than a block away, Stella was a roaster before this downtown spot opened. The Italian soul here runs deeper than the words on the menu board: This is the Via Tribunali of coffee. (And, yes, we know Via Tribunali is owned by Stella competitor Caffe Vita.) Stella does it the Italian way or not at all. The atmosphere here is classic European café, the Diller Room, which specializes in coffee cocktails. Stella’s cappuccino is far removed from the American-style throaty shot cutting through a meringue-like slab of foam. It’s smooth, gentle, dusted with cocoa powder, easy to drink and easy to love.