This Capitol Hill Restaurant Has Perfected the Rice Bowl

B-Side, the hip little sister spot to Analog Coffee, makes a mean breakfast.
| FROM THE PRINT EDITION |
 
 
B-Side’s rice bowl with fresh and fermented vegetables and a soft boiled egg.

In a perfect world—or at least the kind popularized by rich celebrities—every day would start with a rainbow-hued grain-and-vegetable bowl. It’s the sort of food that makes you feel both trendy and virtuous, justifying later indiscretions, like a 3 p.m. cookie. And it’s absolutely delicious at B-Side Foods.

The star dish on this charming, homey Capitol Hill café’s short menu (available for breakfast and lunch) is not the excellent smoked trout toast ($7) or the simple, seasonal frittata and salad—a steal at just $6. The highlight is easily the unassuming wild rice bowl ($9), crowned with an assortment of pickled and fermented vegetables—beets, greens, radishes, broccoli, whatever—and a beautifully soft-boiled egg, with just enough tahini-miso dressing to make it interesting.

Because this is the sister spot of neighboring Analog Coffee, beverages (served in the coolest orange vintage mugs) are spot on. Try the boozy michelada ($6) with fish sauce—like the food, it’s a little twist on the expected.

Capitol Hill, 421 E Thomas St.; bside.cool

 

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