华盛顿州西部6天绮丽自驾游 Six Gorgeous Getaways in Western Washington

6天自然之旅,带您体验华盛顿州西部的绮丽风光
| FROM THE PRINT EDITION |
 
 
柔软的红沙滩、神奇的海蚀柱和美得令人屏息的日落,奥林匹克半岛上的Ruby Beach (红宝石海滩) 绝对是名副其实的太平洋西北最美丽的海滩之一

生活在西雅图地区,我们基本上觉得山明水秀的自然美景是再自然不过的。每日通勤沿途触目可及的景观包括:雷尼尔(活)火山、 在冰川湖面上翱翔的白头鹰、以及白雪覆盖的环太平洋火山带——如此风光,我们习以为常,没有必要刻意去寻找, 华盛顿西部简直就给我们降下美的盛宴! 但这些日常奇观只是冰山一角。从原始的高山湖泊到古树苍天的森林、从海蚀柱到冒着烟的火山口以及罕见的雨林,华盛顿州西部应有尽有,都在驱车可达范围之内。让我们驱车上路,体验一程史诗般的六天自然风光狂欢之旅吧!

登高宪法山(Mount Constitution), 360度鸟瞰圣胡安群岛的风光

第一天
从经典的西北航道开始这趟旅程吧:从Anacortes乘渡轮到圣胡安群岛 (San Juan Islands)的虎鲸岛 (Orcas Island)。这本身就是一次穿越葱郁岛屿、宁静海湾和奇特海獭的心旷神怡之旅。您的目的地是圣胡安群岛的最高峰2,409英尺高的宪法山 (Mount Constitution),这里距离Moran State Park渡轮码头仅半小时的车程。驱车前往最高峰的路上,可以在沿途的停靠点捕捉壮美风景。然后,您可以爬上石头观测塔的台阶,360度领略群岛、贝克尔山 (Mount Baker) 和雷尼尔山 (Mount Rainier)、温哥华等地的旖旎风光。折回到岛上的田园小镇Eastsound,在舒适的Madrona Bar & Grill打个尖儿,然后驱车前往豪华的Rosario Resort酒店过夜。

Image Credit:Salish Lodge & Spa
与轰鸣的瀑布为伴,在位于Snoqualmie Falls上方的豪华度假圣地Salish Lodge小憩片刻或留宿 

第二天
感受过普吉特湾的宁静水域,再去体验月亮瀑布 (Snoqualmie Falls) 的湍急水流。乘坐渡轮返回到Anacortes,然后直线向南并往东 (5号洲际公路南段I-5 South, 2号公路东段US 2 East, 203号洲道南段State Route 203 South)行驶两个小时,到达这个270英尺高的瀑布。上观景台一饱眼福后,沿着0.7英里长的步道往瀑布底部走,尽情享受咆哮的水声和弥漫的水雾。之后,到 Salish Lodge客栈顶层舒适的阁楼酒吧The Attic小憩片刻。 Salish Lodge坐落在瀑布的上方,经过多年的改造,这个经典的太平洋西北度假圣地增添了许多豪华的现代设施。在这里住一个晚上,聆听瀑布的声音,美美地睡上一觉!

锦上添花:最近重新开播的"双峰镇" (Twin Peaks) 电视剧粉丝可能会希望在这里逗留更久一点。这家旅店就是剧中著名的Great Northern Hotel。而剧中出现的其它地标尽在这附近。

最美的风景总在最高处: 暴风脊(Hurricane Ridge)的壮观绮丽让人流连忘返

第三天
早起出发,绕普吉特湾南端两个半小时的行程到达奥林匹克半岛 (Olympic Peninsula),这里有更多的华盛顿州特有美景等着您去发掘。在Kent以南的18号洲道南段 (State Route 18 South) 划过优美弧线,复向北行,驶过16号、3号和19号三条洲道,领略沿途数英里长的海滨城镇的静美风光。在Port Townsend停留小憩,您可以在这个甜蜜闲适的小镇欣赏维多利亚时代的建筑,还可以在Silverwater Café喝上一碗此店自制的美味热汤。

接着,沿着101号公路向西行驶约90分钟,即可到达安吉利斯港 (Port Angeles)。在那里,您可以自行决定是否绕道40分钟,沿着暴风脊路 (Hurricane Ridge Road) 开上5,200英尺的海拔欣赏喀斯喀特山脉 (Cascade Range) 风光。将车停在山脊处的游客中心,从该中心的南侧放眼望去,高低起伏的Bailey Range山脉尽收眼底。

继续向西,约1小时后,您将到达美丽非凡的新月湖 (Lake Crescent)。在这里,冰雪覆盖的山峰侧立于纯净的原始湖旁;Lake Crescent Lodge旅店依偎在湖畔。这一晚,就留宿于此地的小木屋旅店 (全年开放,但冬季只有星期五、星期六、星期天开放),或者在可爱的旅店主屋下榻(冬季关闭)。

步入Quinault温带雨林,被参天古树和如帘幕般的苔藓环绕,恍如置身于魔法森林

第四天
这一天,您将在奥林匹克半岛上发现更多的自然美景。首先是一小时的沿海行程,您将抵达La Push北部的Rialto Beach海滩,这里是华盛顿州唯一的国家海洋保护区的一部分。这个著名的风光如画的景点包括离岸海蚀柱和奇妙的潮池。在石头海滩上漫步2英里到其北端欣赏Hole-in-the-Wall,这是一个由海和风雕刻成的岩石拱门。在低潮时,您可以穿过这个拱门;涨潮时,您可以在陆地步道上领略全景。

沿着101号公路向南继续行驶1小时后,在美丽的Ruby Beach海滩停留,这里是观鸟者 (海鹦!) 的天堂。再往南开10分钟后到达Kalaloch Lodge客栈,在Creekside Restaurant享用蟹饼或三文鱼三明治午餐。随后,沿着海滩向北走上半英里路,去参观非凡的"生命之树" ("Tree of Life"),这是一棵巨大的美国西加云杉,尽管它的根系已被侵蚀并完全暴露出来,仍坚强地悬在崖壁上 。

沿着101号公路向内陆继续前行40分钟后,将车停在Lake Quinault Lodge客栈过夜,然后,您可以在Quinault Rain Forest雨林里漫步,这是奥林匹克国家公园四个温带雨林区之一(西半球唯一的温带雨林群)。这里到处都是苍天古树、腐朽的保育木、不计其数的鼻涕虫和帘幕般覆盖在树木枝干上的苔藓。叫您体验一场葱葱郁郁的森林景观。

第五天
今天来干爽一下,驱车3个半小时,抵达闻名遐迩的圣海伦火山 (Mount St. Helens)。沿着101号公路行驶至5号公路和504号洲道南段 (State Route 504 South),感受1980年火山喷发后的壮观离奇的火山口和苍凉山貌。在Johnston Ridge Observatory天文台伫足观赏风景,聆听护林员的讲解,当年火山喷发的震撼和火山喷发后的余威历历在目。晚上就住在Centralia的 McMenamins Olympic Club Hotel饭店,这里距离旅程最后一站仅有90分钟的车程。

"...(Mt. Rainier)是我登山生涯里所见过的最繁茂葱郁,美的最不可理喻的一个高山花园。"美国"国家公园之父"John Muir(约翰.缪尔)如是说。

第六天
最后一天,在西北美景的鼻祖——雷尼尔山 (Mount Rainier)中结束本次旅程。如果您是在冬季开始这趟旅程,出发前需先查看天堂景区 (Paradise) 一带的路况 (visitrainier.com/roads)。从504号州道折回到706号州道 (State Route 706),行驶到Paradise大约是两个半小时的车程。蜿蜒在706号州道最后一段,壮观的火山景色尽入眼帘。将车停在Paradise, 在步道上漫步 (或穿雪鞋踏雪游!) 。 沿途,您可以近距离欣赏令人叹为观止的Nisqually Glacier冰川和Tatoosh Range山脉绵延起伏的山峰。如果您是在五月至九月之间来到这里,在返回西雅图之前,可以在Paradise Inn内的简易咖啡店充饥,这里距西雅图大约两小时车程。

坐标
第一天
Orcas Island 轮渡预定: wsdot.wa.gov/ferries
Mount Constitution: 需要Discover Pass (华盛顿州州立公园通卡); 可在线购买并打印出来(discoverpass.wa.gov), 或者在Moran State Park附近的护林站购买。
Madrona Bar & Grill: Eastsound, 310 Main St., No. 105; 360.376.7171; madronabarandgrill.com
Rosario Resort and Spa: Eastsound, 1400 Rosario Road; 360.376.2222; rosarioresort.com

第二天
Salish Lodge: Snoqualmie, 6501 Railroad Ave. SE; 800.272.5474; salishlodge.com

第三天和第四天
Silverwater Café: Port Townsend, 237 Taylor St.; 360.385.6448; silverwatercafe.com
Hurricane Ridge information: nps.gov/olym/planyourvisit
Kalaloch Lodge: Forks, 157151 U.S. Highway 101; 866.662.9928; thekalalochlodge.com
Lake Crescent Lodge: Olympic National Park, 416 Lake Crescent Road; 888.723.7127; olympicnationalparks.com/stay/lodging
Lake Quinault Lodge: Olympic National Forest, Quinault, 345 South Shore Road; 800.562.6672; olympicnationalparks.com/stay/lodging

第五天
Johnston Ridge Observatory: Toutle, 24000 Spirit Lake Hwy, the end of State Route 504; 360.274.2140; fs.fed.us/visit
McMenamins Olympic Club Hotel: Centralia, 112 N Tower Ave.; 866.736.5164; mcmenamins.com/Olympic-club

第六天
Paradise Inn Mount Rainier National Park: Ashford, 52807 Paradise Road E; 855.755.2275; mtrainierguestservices.com

English Version

Six Gorgeous Getaways  in Western Washington
Take a nature-focused tour of Western Washington's most gorgeous sights in 6 days 

Living in the Seattle area, you might be forgiven for taking breathtaking natural beauty for granted. When your daily commute includes views of an iconic (and active) volcano, bald eagles soaring over a glacier-carved lake and a snowcapped Ring of Fire range—well, it’s hard not to become complacent. No need to go looking; western Washington literally rains beauty upon us. 

But these daily wonders are just the tip of the glacier. From pristine alpine lakes to towering old-growth forests, from sea stacks to a smoldering caldera and a rare rain forest—it’s all here, within driving distance. Why not hit the road for an epic six-day binge-watching tour of all that beauty.

Day One
Begin with a quintessential Northwest passage: the ferry ride from Anacortes to Orcas Island in the San Juan Islands. The ride itself is a bracing chug past forested islands, tranquil bays and the odd sea otter. Your destination: the highest point in the San Juans, the 2,409-foot Mount Constitution, just a half-hour drive from the ferry dock in Moran State Park. Drive to the top, catching glorious views from pullouts along the way, then climb the steps of the stone observation tower for thrilling 360-degree views of the archipelago; Mount Baker and Mount Rainier; Vancouver, British Columbia; and beyond. Head back into idyllic Eastsound, the island’s small town, for a bite at the cozy Madrona Bar & Grill, then tuck in for the night at the luxe Rosario Resort.

Day Two
Trade the calm waters of Puget Sound for something decidedly more turbulent—the thundering drama of Snoqualmie Falls. Begin by riding the ferry back to Anacortes and then make a beeline south and east (Interstate 5 south, U.S. Highway 2 east, State Route 203 south) for a couple of hours to arrive at the 270-foot falls. Gawk awhile from the upper viewing platform, then make the easy .7-mile trundle to the base of the falls, basking in the pounding roar and plentiful mist. Afterward, catch your breath in The Attic, a snug loft bar perched at the very top of Salish Lodge, which is situated right above the falls. Remodels over the years have added contemporary and luxurious amenities to this quintessential Pacific Northwest resort. Spend a night here if you can, and you will  sleep splendidly within earshot of the falls.

Bonus: Fans of the recently rebooted Twin Peaks television show might want to linger in the area a little longer. The lodge is a stand-in for the show’s Great Northern Hotel. Nearby are other landmarks that appear in the show.

Day Three
Head out early for your two-and-a-half-hour journey around the south end of Puget Sound to the Olympic Peninsula, where more only-in-Washington beauty awaits. You’ll draw an arc on State Route 18 south of Kent, then scoop back upward via state routes 16, 3 and 19 north, soaking up miles of melancholy from seaside towns along the way. Stop for a stretch in Port Townsend, a sweet, strollable town replete with Victorian architecture; grab a bowl of excellent house-made soup at the Silverwater Café.

Drive farther west along U.S. Highway 101 for about 90 minutes to Port Angeles, where you’ll decide whether or not to take a 40-minute detour along Hurricane Ridge Road for dramatic views of the Cascade Range from 5,200 feet. Stop at the ridge’s Visitor Center and gape at the jagged Bailey Range, visible from the south side of the center.

Resume your journey west, arriving at the transcendentally beautiful Lake Crescent after about an hour. Here, snowcapped peaks flank an impossibly pristine-looking lake; Lake Crescent Lodge is nestled along the shore. You’ll spend the night here in one of the cottages (open year-round but only on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays in the winter) or in the lovely main lodge (closed in winter).

Day Four
Today, you’ll uncover more natural beauty on the Olympic Peninsula. Start with a one-hour drive down the coast to Rialto Beach, just north of La Push, part of our state’s only National Marine Sanctuary. This famously picturesque spot offers glorious views of offshore sea stacks and fantastic tidepools. Hike 2 miles on the rocky beach to its northern boundary for a look at Hole-in-the-Wall, a rock arch carved by sea and wind. You can walk through the hole at low tide; at high tide, take in panoramic views from the overland trail instead.

Follow Hwy. 101 south for another hour and make a stop at beautiful Ruby Beach, a birdwatcher’s heaven (puffins!). Another 10-minute drive farther south, at Kalaloch Lodge, grab crab cakes or a salmon BLT for lunch at the Creekside Restaurant. Afterward, walk a half mile north on the beach to visit the extraordinary “Tree of Life,” an immense Sitka spruce that somehow persists, virtually suspended in midair on a cliffside, despite a root system that’s been fully exposed by erosion. 

Head inland along Hwy. 101 for another 40 minutes and park your car for the night at Lake Quinault Lodge, then set out for a walk in the Quinault Rain Forest, one of Olympic National Park’s four temperate rain forest areas (and the only ones in the Western Hemisphere). It’s a lush and broody stroll through a forestscape of ancient old-growth trees, rotting nurse logs, abundant slugs and otherworldly hanging curtains of moss. 

Day Five
Dry things out today with a three-and-a-half-hour drive to a notorious blast zone, the crater of Mount St. Helens. Follow Hwy. 101 to I-5 and State Route 504 south, enjoying spectacular, surreal views of the crater and devastation left by the volcano’s 1980 eruption. Stop for the view and a ranger talk at the Johnston Ridge Observatory. From this vantage point, the violence of the eruption and its aftermath are on vivid display. Stay the night at McMenamins Olympic Club Hotel in Centralia, a 90-minute drive that puts you in launching position for the last leg of your journey.

Day Six
End your tour with the granddaddy of all Northwest beauty sights: Mount Rainier. If you’re taking this trip in winter, check road conditions at Paradise (visitrainier.com/roads) before embarking. Head back out SR 504 and connect with State Route 706 east to Paradise, about two and a half hours away. Winding up the last stretch of SR 706, you’ll be treated to magnificent views of the monstrous volcano. Park at Paradise and hike (or snowshoe!) the trails for a stunning, close-up look at Rainier’s Nisqually Glacier and the jagged peaks of the Tatoosh Range. If you’re touring between May and September, refuel at the grab-and-go café inside Paradise Inn (closed October–April) before heading back to Seattle, about a two-hour drive away.

COORDINATES
Day 1
Orcas Island ferry reservations: wsdot.wa.gov/ferries
Mount Constitution
Discover Pass required; buy online and download (discoverpass.wa.gov), or stop at the ranger station in nearby Moran State Park.
Madrona Bar & Grill: Eastsound, 310 Main St., No. 105; 360.376.7171; madronabarandgrill.com
Rosario Resort and Spa: Eastsound, 1400 Rosario Road; 360.376.2222; rosarioresort.com

Day 2
Salish Lodge: Snoqualmie, 6501 Railroad Ave. SE; 800.272.5474; salishlodge.com 

Days 3 and 4
Silverwater Café: Port Townsend, 237 Taylor St.; 360.385.6448; silverwatercafe.com
Hurricane Ridge information: nps.gov/olym/planyourvisit

Kalaloch Lodge: Forks, 157151 U.S. Highway 101; 866.662.9928; thekalalochlodge.com
Lake Crescent Lodge: Olympic National Park, 416 Lake Crescent Road; 888.723.7127; olympicnationalparks.com/stay/lodging
Lake Quinault Lodge: Olympic National Forest, Quinault, 345 South Shore Road; 800.562.6672; olympicnationalparks.com/stay/lodging

Day 5
Johnston Ridge Observatory: Toutle, 24000 Spirit Lake Hwy, the end of State Route 504; 360.274.2140; fs.fed.us/visit
McMenamins Olympic Club Hotel: Centralia, 112 N Tower Ave.; 866.736.5164; mcmenamins.com/Olympic-club

Day 6
Paradise Inn Mount Rainier National Park: Ashford, 52807 Paradise Road E; 855.755.2275; mtrainierguestservices.com