西雅图农场到餐桌的美味体验 Delicious Farm to Table Restaurants in Seattle

从Herbfarm到Art of the Table,西雅图地区的餐馆引领美国文化,用最新鲜的当地食材烹饪

By Chelsea Lin May 28, 2018

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This article originally appeared in the Seattle Mandarin Guide 2018 西雅图中文生活方式指南 issue of Seattle magazine.

从农场到餐桌的餐饮是用直接从农场及养殖场买到的最新鲜、最具季节性的当地食材进行烹调的餐饮,这个理念在美国的许多地方才刚刚起步,在西雅图,这并不是一种时尚趋势,而是一种生活方式。我们生活的地方被水、农田和林地环绕着,是生产最好的果蔬和鱼肉类的理想之地。派克市场不仅仅是一个旅游景点,它也是这个城市里许多顶级大厨每天必到之处:大厨们通常会来此早市采购当晚餐桌上菜肴所需的食材。

在一个从农场到餐桌式的餐厅用餐,可以体验西雅图和周边地区的丰富物产。但是,保持开放的心态是很重要的,它意味着尝试一些以前从未吃过的食品,像蕨类植物和象拔蚌。同时,这也意味着菜单会经常有变化,不仅仅是季节性的,而是每周或每天都会做出变动,因此不是总能吃到您最喜欢的菜肴。

“为什么要吃当地产的食物呢?当我们似乎可以停留在永无止尽的美好夏天,享用来自全球各地的美食,为什么要费尽心思吃当地的食物呢?因为,在某种程度上而言,当地的食物将我们与我们生活的自然节奏结合在一起,” Ron Zimmerman如是说。Zimmerman是被评为AAA五钻级的位于Woodinville的Herbfarm餐厅的老板,在他的餐厅里,农场到餐桌的体验甚至带些使命感,”当我们吃着当地种的和当季产的食物时,我们可以尝到到食物最纯真的原味。同时我们也在支持当地的农民和传统作物,进而为保存我们与过去、与农地和与那些一旦失去就永远无法挽回的开放空间之间的重要联系尽一份力。”

想品尝最新鲜的从农场到餐桌的餐饮吗?请来体验以下五个截然不同的餐厅!


Image Credit: Herbfarm
Herbfarm餐厅五月的Salmon Nation (三文鱼民族) 主题向一直被视为本地区的象征和命脉的三文鱼致敬

Herbfarm Woodinville, 14590 NE 145th St.; 425.485.5300; theherbfarm.com
也许没有比Woodinville的Herbfarm更经典的从农场到餐桌的例子了。此餐厅是以其业主的父母早年在Fall City经营的菜园而命名的。餐厅的菜园出产大量的香料和果蔬,客人用餐前可以参观。餐厅富有法国乡村风格,里面装饰着主人旅行时从世界各地收集来的数百件艺术品。他们的菜品深具前卫性:九道菜式套餐(每客205-265美元,包含5到6种葡萄酒搭配),每2至4个星期会更换一次主题,比如1月份的Truffle Treasure是专注于太平洋西北地区野生松露的菜肴;五月份的Salmon Nation,是在向我们的最爱的本地鱼类致敬。主厨Chris Weber和他的团队会为客人介绍每道菜,并讲述每道菜背后的故事,一顿饭吃下来,等同经历了一个四个小时的餐饮之旅。来此用餐的最佳季节是每年8月份,那时会有100-Mile Dinner(百里晚餐会),每一道菜的食材(包括盐)都来自于离餐厅100英里以内的地方。用餐需即早预定,建议您选择入座开放式餐桌,如此可以在进餐时也交新朋友!

坐落于Capitol Hill街区的 Bateau餐厅是从农场到餐桌的完美演绎, 很多食材直接取自自己的农场,牛也是自己养殖、屠宰,再风干熟成美味牛排

Bateau Capitol Hill, 1040 E Union St.; 206.900.8699; restaurantbateau.com
当您想到”从农场到餐桌”的时候,脑子里很可能会浮现出农民们拿着装满新鲜果蔬菜篮的画面。但在著名的西雅图大厨Renee Erickson的Bateau餐厅,”农场到餐桌”还指的是几乎所有用餐者的盘中物——牛肉。Bateau是一个有别于传统式的牛排馆:它也供应干式熟成的带骨肉眼牛排和小号菲力牛排,但也有一些很多老派牛排馆不使用的、不太为人知的牛肉部位。黑板上的菜单列出了牛肉的部位(以及牛来自哪个农场)和供应量等信息,服务员会划掉那些已经被客人下单并享用掉的部分。推荐来自Erickson自己在Whidbey岛上的La Ferme Des Anes农场的食材,出产自那里的蔬菜和牛肉,经常出现在Beateau的菜肴盘中。如果您一个人来此用餐,建议尝试这里让人叫绝的汉堡,而且,最好坐在高脚凳上立刻享用!

Image Credt: Razz Hass
Tilth餐厅精心制作的香煎风向标扇贝配龙虾菇和苤蓝沙拉。这家位于Wallingford街区的有机餐厅10多年来一直用来自本地、可持续和季节性的食材烹饪。

Tilth Wallingford, 1411 N 45th St.; 206.633.0801; mariahinesrestaurants.com/restaurants/tilth
Tilth主厨Maria Hines是西雅图老牌名厨中的翘楚,她曾获得James Beard基金会和Food & Wine杂志的最高奖项。Tilth餐厅座落于一栋匠造精致小屋里,拥有有机食品餐厅认证,十年来一直以烹调当地的、可持续的和季节性的菜肴为傲。其因时轮换的品鉴套餐,可以迎合各种不同的就餐需求(一般餐的价格为85- 105美元,素食餐的价格为80- 100美元)。Tilth也供应素菜和无麸质的菜品。如果您需要散点,精通美食的餐馆服务员会很乐意为您提供相应的建议。它的早午餐,包括法式煎蛋和酸面华夫饼,也一样地道可口,让人垂涎。

Art of the Table Wallingford/ Fremont; 3801-A Stone Way N; 206.282.0942; artofthetable.net 
这里有特殊的品鉴套餐,它让您在品尝第一口食物时便深深沉醉,直到最后一勺甜点入口。设计这样的套餐需要相当功夫:7道菜(每客125美元,加上75美元的葡萄酒搭配)可能会因为口味太过新奇或过于平淡而受到诟病,并且上菜节奏的拿捏也很重要,否则可能会太快或太慢。但即使是最讲究的食客,也会爱上 Art of the Table的品鉴套餐。这家餐厅和Joule、The Whale Wins和Manolin几家盛名餐厅齐集于热闹的Stone Way的南端地带,距其过去10年所在的旧址(现在是Kamonegi所在地)只有几条街的距离。长期以来,业主及主厨Ronspies秉持从农场到餐桌的理念和实践,与为餐厅种植食材的人建立了密切的关系,这种得天独厚的优势从而让他得到当地最上等的珊瑚虾、鹅肝、黑鳕鱼、蘑菇和奶酪。如果您不选择吃套餐,也可以入座餐馆后厅的餐桌,点一杯很棒的鸡尾酒,从零点菜单上点选自己喜欢的菜肴进食。

Image Credit:Ania Filimonov
自家菜园种植的薄荷,掺入西雅图著名的Theo巧克力,加上店主的精心手工制作,生成了Ballard街区甜点新宠Parfait冰激凌店这款薄荷巧克力碎冰激凌,薄荷的清新和巧克力的香醇完美搭配 

Parfait Ballard, 2034 NW 56th St.; 206.258.3066; parfait-icecream.com
业主Adria Shimada最初推出这个超级可爱的甜品店时,是在一辆移动餐车上。如今,人们仍可以在夏季的当地农贸市场看到这辆餐车的身影。但是一年四季,您都可以在Ballard找到她亲手制作的冰激凌,您可以以球数或者按品脱来下单,也可以做成冰激凌三明治。最近,该店新加了许多新品类,比如奶昔和蘸式冰激凌。有别于大多数冰激凌公司,包括本地较大的冰激凌业者,Shimada制作的冰激凌完全使用当地农场新鲜的散养鸡蛋和有机奶油;所用的水果,从草莓到梅耶柠檬,也都来自当地著名的农场,巧克力则来自仅仅几英里外的Theo Chocolate巧克力厂。但最珍贵的特色是就在店外的莓果和香料园。园里的绿薄荷叶直接用来制作Shimada精心构思的薄荷巧克力碎冰激凌。在普吉特湾的一些高端超市,如PCC, Metropolitan和Town and Country皆可以买到这些可口的冰激凌。

English Version

FARM TO TABLE FRESH
From the Herbfarm to Art of Table, Seattle restaurants lead the country in embracing local, farm-fresh ingredients

In many parts of the country, farm-to-table dining—the idea of a chef cooking the freshest, most seasonal local ingredients that he procured from a farmer himself—is still just taking off. In Seattle, though, it’s not so much a trend as a way of life. We live in a place surrounded by water, farmland and forest: The ideal position to be in for the very best produce and proteins. Pike Place Market is not just a tourist destination. It’s a daily destination for many of the city’s top chefs, who shop the morning market for what will show up on that evening’s dinner menu.

To dine at a farm-to-table restaurant is to experience the bounty of what Seattle—and the surrounding area—has to offer. But it’s important to go with an open mind. It also means trying things, like fiddlehead ferns and geoduck, which you may not have eaten before. And it means that menus change not just seasonally, but weekly or daily, and your favorite dish may not always be available.

“Why eat local? Why bother eating local foods when we can dine on an endless summer, our meals sourced from the ends of the earth? Because, in part, local foods bind us to the natural rhythms of where we live,” says Ron Zimmerman, owner of the AAA 5-Diamond rated Herbfarm in Woodinville, where eating farm to table is taken very seriously. “When we eat local and in season, we experience food at peak flavor. We also support local farmers and traditional crops, thereby helping to preserve important links to our past, as well as to the farmlands and open space that, once lost, can never return.”

For the freshest farm-to-table experience, try these five very different restaurants:

Herbfarm
Woodinville, 14590 NE 145th St.; 425.485.5300; theherbfarm.com
There’s perhaps no more obvious example of farm-to-table dining than the Herbfarm in Woodinville, named after the garden on the original property in Fall City operated by the owner’s parents. There is an on-site garden abundant with herbs and produce guests are invited to tour prior to dinner. The dining room is of French country-style, with a décor featuring hundreds of artifacts from the owners’ travels around the world. The food itself is revolutionary—nine-course tasting menus ($205-$265, including 5 or 6 wine pairings) only, with changing themes every two to four weeks like January’s Truffle Treasure, dedicated to dishes that highlight wild Pacific Northwest truffles, or May’s Salmon Nation, which pays tribute to our favorite local fish. Chef Chris Weber and his team introduce each dish and give you its backstory, making the meal a four-hour adventure. The best time to visit for optimum seasonality is the annual 100-Mile Dinner in August, where every ingredient—down to the grains of salt—on the plate is sourced from within 100 miles of the restaurant. Reservations are required, well in advance, and opt to sit at the communal table to make new friends while you eat. 

Art of the Table
Wallingford/Fremont; 3801-A Stone Way N; 206.282.0942; artofthetable.net
It’s a special kind of tasting menu that captivates from the first bite and suspends you through the last spoonful of dessert. It’s no easy feat; seven courses ($125, plus $75 for wine pairings) can be punishing when flavors are too bold or too bland, pacing is too fast or too slow. But even Goldilocks would love an Art of the Table tasting menu. Located on the south end of Stone Way in the buzzy strip that includes Joule, The Whale Wins and Manolin. It’s just blocks from the quirky former spot it inhabited for 10 years (that now holds Kamonegi). Ronspies has long been a champion of farm-to-table dining, building close relationships with the people who grow food for his restaurant and, in turn, having unparalleled access to the best local spot prawns, foie gras, black cod, foraged mushrooms and cheese. If you want to stop by for a more casual experience, sit in the back lounge area and order an excellent cocktail, plus some plates to share from the a la carte menu. 

Tilth
Wallingford, 1411 N 45th St.; 206.633.0801; mariahinesrestaurants.com/restaurants/tilth
Chef Maria Hines has earned top awards from the James Beard Foundation and Food & Wine Magazine—she’s a staple in Seattle’s old guard of applauded chefs. Her restaurant Tilth, housed in a Craftsman bungalow, is certified organic, and has been priding itself on local, sustainable, seasonal cooking for more than a decade. Rotating tasting menus are available in a variety of food specification (general tasting $85-$105 and vegetarian tasting $80-$100). Options are available for vegans and gluten-free diners as well. Servers are well informed and happy to guide you towards recommendations if you wish to build your own meal from individual plates as well. Even brunch, with soft French omelets and sourdough waffles, is wonderful and understated.

Bateau
Capitol Hill, 1040 E Union St.; 206.900.8699; restaurantbateau.comWhen you think “farm-to-table,” most likely it conjures up images of farmers with baskets full of fresh produce. But at prominent Seattle chef Renee Erickson’s Bateau, farm-to-table refers also to the beef that covers nearly every diner’s plate. Bateau is a steakhouse, but not a traditional one—yes, there are dry-aged ribeyes and petite filet mignons, but there are also lesser-known cuts of meat from parts of the cow that many old school steakhouses don’t use. A chalkboard menu spells out what cuts (and what farms the cows are from) and how much, and as they get ordered and gobbled, servers cross out what is no longer available. Choose something from La Ferme Des Anes, Erickson’s own Whidbey Island farm, where she raises cattle and grows vegetables that show up among the side dishes. The burger—best eaten at one of the few bar stools if you’re dining solo—is exceptional.

Parfait
Ballard, 2034 NW 56th St.; 206.258.3066; parfait-icecream.com
Owner Adria Shimada launched this adorable dessert shop as a truck, which you can still see in summer months at local farmers markets. But year-round, you can find her made-from-scratch ice cream in Ballard, where you can order it by the scoop or the pint, or made into ice cream sandwiches. Recently Adria has added many other new things to the menu like Shakes and dip bites. Unlike most ice cream companies, even the bigger name local ones, Shimada makes the base custard for her ice creams from scratch, with farm-fresh, cage-free eggs and local organic cream. Fruit, from strawberries to Meyer lemons, comes from well-known farms in the area, and the chocolate comes from Theo Chocolate made just a few miles away. But the most precious feature is the herb-and-berry garden just outside the shop—the spearmint leaves go directly into Shimada’s amazing interpretation of mint chocolate chip. These lovely ice cream are also available at top groceries throughout the Puget Sound like PCC Markets, Metropolitan Markets, Town and Country Markets, etc.

Chain Gang
As Seattle’s population has grown and diversified, so too has our options for really great food from all over the world. And it’s not just in the form of local mom-and-pop shops. Popular chains from Asia have been setting up shop in the Seattle area—with great success. 

 85°C
Both branches of this Taiwanese chain are bright, modern and filled to the gills with serve-yourself pastries from taro buns to savory breads, plus stunning cakes. The lines are long, but worth the wait.
Tukwila, 1341 Westfield Southcenter Mall; 206.244.1885;
Lynnwood, 18700-A 33rd Ave. W; 425-672-2885; 85cbakerycafe.com

Blackball
Another Taiwanese dessert shop, this Edmonds café specializes in elaborate sundaes made with crushed ice, grass jelly, beans, taro, mocha and more. Bring a friend—you’ll need a partner to share with.
Edmonds, 22001 WA-99; 425.673.9711; blackball.com.tw

Din Tai Fung
The most prolific of the Asian restaurant imports here is everyone’s favorite place for xiao long bao—the whole menu is excellent—now with four locations in the Seattle area (and still a wait at peak hours for all).
University District, 2621 NE 46th St.; 206.525.0958
Bellevue, 700 Bellevue Way NE; 425.698.1095
Downtown, 600 Pine St.; 206.682.9888
Tukwila, 181 Southcenter Mall; 206.257.2888
dintaifungusa.com

Baron’s Xi’an Kitchen & Bar
Lincoln Square’s impressive new expansion includes many new restaurants, including this place (owned and operated by the Baron’s Hotel Group, with hotels throughout Asia) specializing in the bold flavors from Mainland China.
Bellevue, 500 Bellevue Way NE; 425.625.2165; baronsbellevue.com

Gyu-Kaku
This very newly opened yakiniku (Japanese style do-it-yourself barbecue) place has locations throughout Japan, Canada and other parts of the U.S. The best value is to order one of the set meals, which include various meat cuts, sides and dessert.
Bellevue, 14506 NE 20th St.; 425.296.8818; gyu-kaku.com

Betsutenjin
Though Japanese in name and spirit, this fantastic new ramen spot is actually having about a dozen outposts in Hong Kong. There are only two soup options: one with a prawn miso broth, and the other with Hakata-style rich pork bone broth.
Capitol Hill, 954 E Union St.; Facebook: Betsutenjin Ramen USA 

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