The charms of Heather Earnhardt’s Wandering Goose are many: church pews for banquettes, lampshades made of flour sacks, poppies blooming royal red on the walls. In a slice of space adjoining Ethan Stowell’s Rione XIII (and visible through a stretch of reclaimed windows), the former co-owner of Volunteer Park Café is making buttermilk biscuit sandwiches and breakfast/brunch plates.
Go with the latter: I dig the outstanding Bubble and Squeek (brisket over veggies with poached eggs, $11) and the big, beautiful fried oyster sandwich on white bread with pepper jelly and bacon ($11). The biscuit sandwiches can be rather dry—the fried chicken skin in the Aunt Annie’s sandwich ($8) clung thickly to the biscuit—or salty; that country ham on the Original ($7.75) needs more than cheese and an egg to balance it. The pastry case is a sanctuary: coffee cake, cookies, pie? All good.
Breakfast and lunch daily, dinner Fri. Capitol Hill, 403 15th Ave. E; 206.323.9938; thewanderinggoose.com $