Ethan Stowell's Mkt. Serves Up Delicious Market-Driven Dishes

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!--paging_filter--pIt is a blessing to live in a city so excited about good food that, when an impossibly slim sliver of space is left between businesses in a neighborhood the size of your pocket, you’ll blink and a little restaurant will pop right up. Such is the case in Tangletown: Mkt., pronounced “market” and owned by prolific restaurateur a href="http://local.seattlemag.com/blog/%5Buser-raw%5D/ethan-stowell-close-unio..."Ethan Stowell/a, has chef Joe Ritchie at the helm, and he’s doing remarkable things in the tight confines. Ritchie, who has spent time at a href="http://local.seattlemag.com/article/food-we-love-eggplant-fries-poppy"Poppy /aand a href="http://local.seattlemag.com/herbfarm"The Herbfarm/a, crafts crisp fritters of winter squash ($9) and serves them with an intriguing pumpkin-seed-oregano pesto for dipping. His slow-roasted vegetable salad ($9) is roundly satisfying, with a silken soft-boiled egg adding heft and sourdough croutons bringing crunch. There are people-pleasers such as scallops ($21) with smoky pork shank and punctuated with the smart addition of chervil, and food-geek catnip like lamb’s tongue ($13), rich and tender, with freshly grated horseradish, brown bread and beets. A well-edited wine list and just a few drinks are offered, and desserts are simple, home-style affairs, such as a chocolate malted pudding ($8) that was lovely. Because Mkt. is so small and narrow, with seating for just one long row of tables in its pared-down interior, you’ll need to make reservations (yes, they take them!) until the buzz dies down a bit. Which may be awhile, as the place deserves the good attention it’s getting. Dinner nightly. Tangletown, 2108 N 55th St.; 206.812.1580; a href="http://www.ethanstowellrestaurants.com" target="_blank"ethanstowellrestaurants.com/anbsp;/p