Sam Crannell’s kitchen handiwork helped Quinn’s become the great gastropub that it is today. Now, along with his team of canny cooks at LloydMartin (named for Crannell’s two grandpas), he’s revealing how remarkably resourceful he can be. Much like the old Matt’s in the Market (before the remodel), Crannell and company make do with just two plug-in electric cooktops and an oven—no hood, grill or gas—and put out some incredibly soulful food in the old Bricco space atop Queen Anne Hill: marvelous sauces, hearty and heart-warming braised meats, and pasta dishes to swoon over. (We’re awaiting the return of the incredible elk Bolognese with huckleberry sauce, due to appear again this season.) You’ll find the tenderest of all meatballs, or duck confit atop an autumnal vegetable hash (about $16). You’ll sip a glass of wine poured from the short but smart wine list. And, if you sit at the bar, you’ll be served by Tyler Kingdom, one of the best bartender-waiters in town. The room feels energized but adult, filled with couples on dates and friends sharing plates. If you haven’t been here yet, go now: The place is very good and it just keeps getting better.
You should know: Not kid friendly, ideal for dates; limited bar; outstanding food deals at happy hour, 5–6 p.m., Tue.–Sat.; no reservations. Get directions.