Mixed Results at the new Marché

Campagne's new makeover brings some hits and a few misses to the Pike Place Market.

Campagne closed a year ago to reopen as Marché last fall, with only middling success. On the bright side: The expanded bar is quite a good place to meet a friend for wine, outstanding pomme frites ($5) and a slab of chunky pork hock terrine ($8) dotted with pistachios and served on a wood plank. Add in a warm potato salad ($9) swathed in creamy mayonnaise dotted with salmon roe and you’ve got a very, very good meal. But, that’s pretty much exactly what was great about Campagne. Marché’s dining room is another story: Even with the place knocked down a notch on the formality scale, the only thing that is genuinely more easygoing is the service staff, whose members seem to really enjoy talking to each other. There are hits—house-made sausage ($21) with sauerkraut and roasted potatoes, a wonderful hit of Alsatian flavors—and there are terrible misses, most notably a gummy pasta with calf’s trotters ($18) that coats the mouth in fat and tastes vaguely like canned soup.

Dinner nightly. Pike Place Market, 86 Pine St.; 206.728.2800; marcheseattle.com. $$