Perched on a red chair at pseudo-Mafioso bar Vito’s on First Hill last week, giraffe-legged, rock-jawed Ted Danson presented me with an environmental riddle: He does not surf.

At the warm, brine-scented Northwest Fisheries Science Laboratory (NFSL) in Montlake, soft-spoken biologist Paul McElhany and a team of scientists immerse geoduck larvae in a multitude of saltwater baths.

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