Frelard isn’t an official Seattle neighborhood. It could be Fremont, but it seems physically and emotionally distant from the Adobe/Tableau/Googleplex that has taken over part of that neighborhood. It could be Ballard, but again, though the brew pubs and restaurants are coming, there are still a lot of cavernous industrial warehouses that provide livelihoods for people fabricating more than tacos and cocktails. Leary Way from about NW 39th Street to just south of NW 45th Street is still a gritty, industrial part of town. If you listen, you can hear the City Light Substation humming over the buzzing saws cutting into steel and aluminum-hulled ships.
Concrete crumbles into gravel at street ends that abut the chain-links fencing off the shipbuilders and gravel haulers along the ship canal. Head west off of Leary down Bowdoin Place, and you’ll end up at the gates of Western Towboat Co. Russell Shrewsbury is the third generation to run the family-owned company, which has been building and operating working boats since 1948. He compares the company’s effect on the neighborhood economy to that of a farm-to-table restaurant. “When we launch a new boat, like we did in June,” he says, “many of the parts for that boat come from local businesses.”
An impressive product of Western Towboat Co.
This unique neighborhood is one of the few areas of the city where manufacturing, industrial, commercial and residential elements rub shoulders like patrons at a crowded bar. A few short blocks from the shipbuilders, Frelard drifts east of Leary into an area where many of the original wood-sided craftsman bungalows built in the early 1900s are still standing. Ross Playground is a block-sized park between Third and Fourth avenues NW and NW 43rd and 44th streets. It was once the site of an early 20th century school. People can rent the newly remodeled Ross Playfield Shelterhouse for events and parties—it’s a popular place, especially over the summer.
Students from the Pacific Crest School, a Montessori school for preschoolers through eighth graders located two blocks away, use the park. The neighborhood is part of the learning environment, says Dorrie Knapp Guy, the head of the school. “We have this rotating curriculum around communities,” Knapp Guy says. “It just helps our students learn about all the elements of society we rely upon, and global markets as well.”
Pacific Crest students recently talked to the boatbuilders at Western Towboat Co; Shrewsbury was happy they visited. He wants them to learn about his industry and the opportunities it offers. “It gives you a little bit different freedom than going to work every day from nine to five,” he says. “You get to work on the boats, sail all over the world. It is a different way of living life.”
Boatbuilders aren’t the only alternatives Pacific Crest students can see around them. Sean Kelly moved his membership-based pottery studio, Sean’s Clay Corner, to Frelard in September, after his North Queen Anne location was demolished to make room for apartments. “You can still find these warehouses that aren’t either abandoned or being torn down for condos,” he says.
ALL ABOARD: Russell Shrewsbury’s family business, Western Towboat Co., has been a Frelard institution for three generations. Today, Shrewsbury likens the relationship between business and neighborhood to that of a farm-to-table restaurant, sourcing materials from local purveyors.
Frelard is situated in what the city of Seattle designates as “urban industrial neighborhood 50 of Commercial Waterfront Specialty Area 12,” which is primarily commercially zoned waterfront properties along the Ship Canal from Portage Bay to the Shilshole area of Ballard. As other neighborhoods gentrify, Kelly worries that housing demand will drive up rents in Frelard, and the warehouse spaces will disappear. He moved in with a long-term lease, but across the street, renowned glass sculptor and artist Martin Blank says his lease is up in two years and he probably won’t be able to renew. He was happy to settle here after being “Allenized,” as he jokingly puts it, out of South Lake Union, a reality of changing times about which Blank has no hard feelings. Being on the border of residential and industrial areas, and within easy reach of Ballard and Fremont, makes the neighborhood “an incredible place to work” for Blank. “But,” he says, “it’s also why all the campers can park right in front of my studio for three weeks.” While Blank says many of those living in their vehicles are excellent neighbors, there are plenty who are not—he regularly finds discarded needles in the area and has been robbed three times.
A cyclist on the Burke-Gilman trail.
Different parts of Frelard fall under different zoning requirements and parking restrictions, and their close proximity can lead to tensions. For example, one side of a block may ban parking between 2 and 5 a.m., while another side may have no restrictions, allowing vehicles to stay parked for 72 hours (though many stay much longer). People who live in their vehicles park throughout the neighborhood. Everyone I spoke with for this story grapples with this issue. Some want the city to rigorously enforce the regulations. Many were concerned with the sanitation and safety issues that can arise when people are living on the streets. It’s an urban conundrum: the industrial grittiness that allows creative warehouse spaces to thrive also fosters conditions that can be dangerous to fellow citizens, not to mention bad for business.
Hale’s Ales, located near the northern border of Frelard, is the granddaddy of the 11 local breweries now in the area.
Many glass artists and producers have gravitated to the area. Within just a few blocks of each other are Celebration Ashes, where your loved one’s ashes are incorporated into one-of-a-kind, hand blown glass artworks; Dale Chihuly’s studios and Blank’s studio, as well as the venerable Glass Eye Studio, a hot shop founded in 1978.
Frelard is a music mecca too. In 2008 Dave West, a musician and general contractor, started transforming the former home of a paper box company into Substation Seattle, with state-of-the-art rehearsal rooms, a recording studio and performance venue. In 2014 he opened Rock Rooms Ballard a block away, and between the two buildings he rents 137 rooms by the hour or by the month. Business is healthy. He has a waiting list. Up-and-coming artists as well as established musicians have settled into the spaces. Michael Nesmith of The Monkees fame rented space here once. West says he got an autograph for his son. And maybe for the kid in him, too.
For glass artist Martin Blank, Frelard’s blend of industrial and residential creates excellent working conditions.
It’s not just artists attracting outsiders to Frelard; beer tourism has spilled over from Ballard into Frelard. Collect stamps at the 11 brewers currently operating in the area and you too can win prizes. Hale’s, the granddaddy of local breweries, is near the northern border of Frelard. Up the road is Bad Jimmy’s Brewing, the six-year-old brewery that took over a warehouse that once housed a Crossfit gym. Co-owner Seth Mashni sees their family-friendly, dog-friendly place as a community center, where everyone is welcome. “We get a lot of people here, [from] families to punk rockers to a guy who just got back from welding a boat who’s got singed clothes,” he says.
In warmer months, hops grow over the deck outside the brewery. Different varieties of hops bring out distinctive flavors and aromas, providing different experiences with every brew. It is the differences that make them interesting. The same goes for a great neighborhood.